Beaufort, NC to Portsmouth, Va; April 28-30 (including The Dismal Swamp)


Saturday, April 28 ~ Beaufort, NC to Alligator River

We left Beaufort about 7:15. We had to wait until 7:30 for the bridge to open! This is a really cute little town and we
had an enjoyable time, I was sorry to leave.  We crossed Pamlico Sound, which is a huge body of water and,
thankfully, it was calm the day we crossed. It was very pretty. This was the day of the rivers. The Bay River is forested
and just lovely. The rivers were really large and very wide. We navigated the Pimlico, Neuse, Pungo and, finally the
Alligator River. This trip has been not so kind to many of the other members of the AGLCA who have preceeded us.
They have faced high winds and opposing currents which makes for large choppy waves and a very uncomfortable
ride. The pictures show the expansiveness of the rivers. This view is a river that is easily 10 miles across and it is
difficult to see land ahead and behind and sometimes even from side to side on the rivers. While the Mighty
Mississippi is indeed mighty big, we've discovered much larger rivers along the east coast. The Potomoc River which
is still ahead is around 20+ miles across at the mouth. It is not uncommon to find large amounts of debris floating.
There are many trees and pilings floating and the US Army Corp of Engineers makes a practice of gathering the
larger pieces and piling them up along the banks. There are also "dead heads" that are large partially submerged
logs and pilings that have become water logged and so heavy that they no longer floating on top and thus very hard
to see. Hitting one of the dead heads can ruin your boating day.
















We got to the Alligator River Marina at 7:45 pm.  It was a long day. The marina is small and Miss Wanda, the marina
owner, was very nice that night. We were glad to get there because they close at 8:00 and I believe we would have
been out of luck, had we arrived after closing. We had a beautiful sunset and sunrise there.




















SUNSET SUNRISE


Sunday, April 29 ~ Alligator River to the Dismal Swamp

We left the Alligator River Marina about 9:00 am. We had another big sound to cross, the Albemarle Sound. It was
very smooth, only a little rocky, rolly. Elizabeth City area is very pretty, lots and lots of trees.  The water was very
smooth, a strange color, reddish brown. We had thought we would stay in Elizabeth City where the “rose buddies”
have a tradition of bringing every boat that ties up there a rose and if there are 4 or 5 boats, they have a wine and
cheese party for them. It is a lovely thing to do and much appreciated by boaters. However, it was early when we got
there and we decided to continue into the Dismal Swamp. As soon as it was time to open the lock, we went through a
bridge that had to be opened for us by the lock master, who operates both the bridge and the lock. The lock into the
Dismal Swamp was right after the bridge. Depending on which way you enter the Swamp, you are raised or lowered
about eight to ten feet.


The Dismal Swamp, despite its name, is absolutely beautiful. After leaving Elizabeth City we entered the Pasquatank
River with beautiful homes carefully landscaped. For most of this trip since Florida it is like we have been following the
spring season. The river is spectacular, not as large as some we've traveled, but peaceful and calm with color
everywhere.
















v:shapes="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081419603080235154">












After entering the lock into the Dismal Swamp proper we found that we had to steer the boat by following the bright
reflection. The reflections were so perfect (mirror like) that it was hard to distinguish the shore from the water--so
follow the bright path.


The water is very smooth. The canal through it is narrow. It is the oldest continually operating man-made canal in the
United States. Both George Washington and Virginia Governor Patrick Henry thought canals were the easiest answer
for efficient internal transportation. In 1784, the Dismal Swamp Canal Company was formed and, in 1793, slaves
began digging by hand. Twelve years (of back-breaking labor) later it was completed. The first boat, a flat bottom
vessel, was admitted to the canal in 1805. Until the 1920’s, it was a major transportation canal for commercial traffic.
Since that time it has been used by pleasure boaters. We spent the night at the Visitor’s Center, tied up at the dock.
There was one other boat there, Puffin. We had led down the canal and had talked back and forth on the radio.

Monday, April 30 ~ Dismal Swamp Visitor’s Center to Portsmouth, VA


The state of Virginia operates a visitors center within the Dismal Swamp. It also serves the highway traffic that at a
couple of points parallels the Swamp. We stayed free of charge at the dock provided for visiting boats. Virginia points
to the Americas Great Loop Cruising Association (AGLCA) burgee to show what we're doing and approximately where
we are "on the Loop".

















The next day our port engine would not start and the starboard engine was leaking oil out of the transmission through
the oil cooler and out the exhaust. Virginia is to nice to mention that the only problem with the port engine was that the
"capitan" also known as trouble shooter, mechanic, etc forgot to turn the fuel valve back on after shutting it off when
he changed the fuel filter. The result was air in the fuel system which is not tolerated by a diesel engine. Ahh, the life
of a boater! So, we began our day with only one engine, the leaky starboard. Once again, we led down the canal. Phil
saw many snakes swimming in the water.




id="Blog1_blog-pager-older-link" border=0 v:shapes="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081421741973948626">















We had a pair of Canadian Geese, who were really annoyed with us because we kept interrupting their swimming
routine. They would fly in front of the boat, land several yards in front of us and have to fly again. They really honked
at us in no uncertain terms! We saw several large birds in trees, sunning with their wings out-stretched. It was, as I
have said, absolutely beautiful. When we were almost at the end of the Dismal Swamp before the last lock and bridge,
Buddy on Puffin passed us and tied up at a little dock, so we could raft to him. They were going to spend the night
there and visit with the lock-master, Robert Peek, who was a friend.
Buddy and Phil worked on our boat until they got the port engine started. While they were working, the lock-master
had driven down to where we were to see if we planned on going through the lock that day. I told him our problem and
said we were trying to get to Portsmouth, Virginia. The locks only open at certain times throughout the day. We had
missed the opening we wanted and the next one was several hours later. Buddy told us to call Robert, tell him the
engine was fixed and see if he would go ahead and open it for us. What great guys ~ both of them! Robert said to
come on through. While we were in the lock, we were visiting with him. He loves conch shells. He played his favorite,
“Old Blue”, for us while we were in the lock. He plays a conch shell like a reed instrument! I have heard them played in
Hawaii at sunset, but never have I heard one played like Robert Peek plays! We plan to send him, at his request, a
conch shell next time we go home. We arrived in Portsmouth, Virginia across the Elizabeth River from Norfolk about 1:
00. We were at the Tidewater Marina.
Our Travel Log
Travel Log